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My favorite bits and pieces from London Fashion Week

Marios Schwab a/w 08-09
Also a big hit last season with his bodyheat-prints and precies body conscious cuts and drapings, Marios Schwab continued his take on construction, but this time the dressed dropped to the floor, tightend inn and made a statement. Watching the models walk in them became just a little bit painfull (kinda like the soundsystem/lightrig-collection by Viktor & Rolf), but still the dresses looks stunning:

Last seasons precise rolled-up cuts, replaced with ripped Rorschach inkblots

Well, at least the same symmetry

He claim that the collection sprung out from reading Charlotte Perkins Gilman's "The Yellow Wallpaper" (click here to read the short-story)

I can't help assosiate this dress with the bridalgown from Guns N' Roses' epic

(this dress was a big fashion-moment for me when I was prepubescent)

Evening-gowns combined with jeans is a hit...

...Björk agrees

The short peacoats looked borrowed from Raf Simons s/s 2008 collection for Jil Sander...

...and these cropped furs reminds me too much of Stephen Jones hats for Giles s/s 2007. It bothers me that the accesories isn't as exciting as the dresses, just offering a contrast. There where even giant circular bags, and that without a new approach to the design which where originally by AsFour, now turned ThreeAsFour

I thought these wallpaper-cutout-dresses where fabolous, made by Tom Gallant, who's known for making beautifull wallpaper-motives out of porno magazines.

Oh, and I couldn't avoid assosiate this collection with the "rat wallpaper" by swedish Front Design. Some years ago they designed a series of products with some kind of help from the animal-world, and with this wallpaper they used hungry rats to gnaw out the patterns...

Ann-Sofie Back a/w 08-09
She's still obsessed with what-not-to-do in terms of common norms and dress-codes. But lately Ann-Sofie Back seemes to move towards a more glamorous quirkiness rather than the suburbian-chic I've always loved her for...In her a/w 08-09 collection, Ann-Sofie took it the red carpets of Hollywood and back again (Britney Spears pixelated crotch)...and what do we get? Pixelated prints, gstring-draperies, and lots of beautiful silk.

...remember Kate Moss and her vintage Dior-dress? A true 2depressed2getdressed-moment

Go for silk and leather!

Amy Winehouse inspired these red wine-stains (seems to be next seasons big muse, as she launched the new Fendi-store in Paris and where used by Rei Kawakubo as soundtrack for the weirdest Comme Des Garcons-collection I've seen for a while)

For more pictures and text about the collection (for once, elaborate information instead of vague one-liners) check out the Ann-Sofie Back-blog

Christopher Kane a/w 08-09
The ankle-long, slim silhouette continued at Christopher Kanes show, appearing alongside the hammering beats from Sally Potters film-adaptation of Virginia Woolfs "Orlando" (Jimmy Somervilles "Coming", last seen performed by Nils Bech at Kaare Berntsen).

He's moved even further away from the small Kylie-friendly rave-gowns, but always simple pony-tails leaving the look just slightly casual

I like the way he don't layer grand, leaving the dresses reaviling and maybe alittle bit harsh, despite the feminine element that's being used

Always these big contrasting details, may it be neon-zippers, Swarovski-crystals or like in this collection: big sequins

Jackets with patterns growing out like coral reef

A reversed take on leather

...others worth mentioning:

Louise Goldin a/w 08-09
Her second collection, going for a kind of retro futuristic eskimo...oh well, I just liked the fact that it resulted in dresses that look warm enough for a quick cigarette on the terrace without catching a cold...

...thumbs up for another take on the shoulderpad-trend

Giles Deacon a/w 08-09
I kinda liked these jackets. You know, a warm, nice winter-jacket is easier said than found...

But some of his dresses just look like, I don't know, a fancy, crafty shop window-display:
I loved Raf Simons take on tulle last season, but this just looks like a mess too me. But when that's said, I usually love window-displays...

And of course, I know and see that Giles use advanced laser-cut technology, and not pattern scissors...

But ok, I think I'm going into Alenemor13s territory now...

1 kommentar:

andy hotpants sa...

WOHOOOOOOO!!!!! great work